Mignon Casselberry - Ojai CA
A thin, rigid plane of plastic, wood or heavy card stock approximately 9 inches on a side to define a square is arranged to engage a person's chest. A right angle 90. degree. protractor in turn is secured to the stock with the zero angle line extending along the surface of the device. A weighted pointer hangs free to indicate on the protractor the chest angle to the vertical; that is, the inclination angle of the member to the vertical which in turn determines the chest angle. This chest angle is the same angle to be provided in a control (bust) dart. In other words, this chest angle corresponds to the angle needed to be taken up in the control (bust) dart of the bodice of the pattern for a garment to bring the cross grain line of the fabric to the necessary horizontal position for a proper unwrinkled fit. Other appropriate measurements are made cooperating with the dart angle measurement described to define proper positioning for the dart, so that a proper unwrinkled fit is assured.